Naples, Amalfi, and some beach time

Naples is an interesting place. Leading up to my trip I had heard mixed reviews, so I didn’t know what to believe. My parents just flew in, so we headed down together and stayed with some relatives who live just outside the city limits in a small town at the base of Mount Vesuvius...that in itself was a little freaky. Going to bed knowing that the volcano that consumed Pompeii is in the backyard is slightly unsettling.
The first thing I would say about Naples is that if you visit you have to see the city with a Neapolitan. The people who live there respond much better to one of their own. Plus, it can be a dangerous city, so going around with someone who speaks the dialect makes you less of a target. I didn’t see this side of the city, but we were told numerous times to leave all jewelry at home and to always keep and eye out when walking the streets. Naples is also home of the Camorra, which is an infamous branch of the mafia.

So, another thing that Naples is known for is one of the most beloved foods in all the world...pizza! After putting our bags down at the house, our first stop was to one of the oldest and best pizzerias in Naples, “Pizzeria da Michele.” It’s a pretty unassuming place, but the lunchtime line outside is a clue to the quality of the pizza. After getting our number we waited for over two hours before we were seated...yes, two hours. There are few tables and only two items on the menu to choose from. Marinara (just sauce) or Margarita (sauce and fresh mozzarella). This might seem like a lack of options, but how can you argue with a pizzeria that’s been in business for over 140 years.
Each person gets an individual pie. They are a pretty good size, but I didn’t have too much trouble finishing off mine...and about a third of my mom’s as well. Eating pizza in Naples is a must. If you want to make it as authentic as possible, go to “da Michele.”

I didn’t really know that Naples is so close to the water, but it is situated on an absolutely beautiful piece of coastline. The sites from the high parts of the city are all postcard quality. The water is a combination of various shades of deep blues, Mount Vesuvius can be admired from a safe distance, and there are impressive villas all along the rocky cliffs. Unfortunately, this beauty from a distance doesn’t quite translate when you get to the center of town. You have to be prepared for what the streets of Naples are all about. For one thing it’s noticeably dirty. Some of the streets look like people just dumped a weeks worth of garbage along the road. Not too pleasant.
Along with that, driving in Naples is a sight in itself. I thought driving in Rome was bad, but Naples is kind of like a demolition derby. I wouldn’t recommend driving a car that you actually care about in downtown Naples. A bump here and a scrape there are inevitable. Oh, and also get used to guys leaning halfway out there windows as they are driving screaming at anything that gets in their way. It’s actually pretty funny...as long as they are not yelling at you.
If you have tough skin and can handle yourself in a tight situation than you should check out Naples. The city has an incredible history and some amazing sites, just be prepared for a more in your face type of city.

After a couple days of Naples, we took a day to see the sites of the Amalfi Coast. It really blows me away how many naturally stunning spots Italy has to offer. Amalfi is no different. We drove along the coast stopping in Sorrento for the day. One of the things Sorrento is know for is limoncello. The lemons sold at the markets are the size of melons. That is no exaggeration...it’s a little ridiculous. They have little shops lining the streets with different limoncello stores, all more than happy to give you a taste of their product. Earlier this year I learned how to make my own limoncello, and for my first batch it actually didn’t come out too bad. But this is the real stuff. Of course it’s perfect as a digestif, but a few small glasses in the middle of the day isn't too bad either.

The last few days were spent even further South at our host's beach house.  The days were spent laying at the beach, afternoons were set aside for over the top seafood meals followed by a two or three hour nap, while the nights were all about eating gelato and soaking in the nightlife down by the water. Some of spots we hit were Scari, Maratea, and Sapri.  The coastline down in those parts of Italy, close to the border of Campania and Basilicata (two of Italy's 20 regions, which are kind of like states) remind me a little of the PCH in the Santa Barbara area mixed in with Maui.  Being a peninsula in the Mediterranean has worked out pretty well for Italy.  It's hard to find a place that isn't picture worthy.

This was last major trip before I head back to the States.  I'll be leaving tomorrow for Pietracupa, where I'll spend my last few weeks of my year long adventure.  Pietracupa will be all about relaxing and catching up with old friends I haven't seen in years.  I can't wait to get there.