Lazio-Milan

I got my first taste of the world of calcio (soccer) this past weekend. My beloved Lazio went up against one of the most decorated teams in history, AC Milan. Lazio lost the game 2-1, and are in the middle very rough patch...ok, they are playing terrible right now and haven't won a league game since August! It's pretty embarrassing, especially in a city like Rome, where most people are fans of the other soccer team in town, Roma. Even my own family are relentless about making sure I'm aware of how bad Lazio is right now (besides myself, only my father and brother are Lazio fans...everyone else sides with Roma).

I was lucky enough to attend the game with a friend who is also Lazio obsessed. We showed up to the stadium about an hour early to make sure we got a good parking spot. Parking around the Stadio Olimpico is just like parking anywhere else in Rome, a mess. When we got out of the car there was a random guy guiding people into available spots. He had no affiliation with the team, stadium, or city. He just shows up on game days and hopes for tips. A tip to this guy also helps to ensure that he will keep an eye on your car during the game to make sure nothing happens to it...without the tip, I was told, he would be more likely to turn a blind eye to a thief or he might try to take something from your car himself!

Walking up to the stadium was a little different than events I've been to in the US. The main difference was the large number of cops in riot gear strategically placed around the stadium. Unfortunately, soccer games in Italy (and in other countries in Europe) can get violent sometimes. Lazio fans in particular are known for being a little extreme with their support. I didn't experience any of this negative behavior from the fans though. Aside from Lazio losing the game and the torrential downpour during the entire game, it was an amazing experience.

In fact the best part were the fans themselves. The seating is set up so the two ends of the stadium, behind the goals, are devoted solely for the diehard faithfuls...known as the "Ultras." In particular, the Lazio "Ultras" are the Irriducibili. They dominate the Curva Nord (North Curve), while the Romaniste (Roma fans) take the Curva Sud (South Curve).

Growing up the Curva Nord had been this special place that I always wanted to experience first hand, but never had the chance. I wanted to cheer alongside my fellow Lazio fans and sing the songs of our team.

First of all, they are an incredibly organized group. Thousands and thousands of fans waving huge flags while singing in unison different songs all throughout the game is an impressive sight. Most of the songs are dedicated to ripping into the owner of the team, who everyone seems to hate with a passion.

They live and die with each pass. One moment they are booing and yelling at a player for a silly mistake. Before they even have a chance to take another breathe they are clapping for the creative play of someone else. It is funny to listen to all the fans, especially because they are right on in their assessments most of the time. Their soccer IQ is unbelievable. That's everybody...the 80 year old grandfather and his 13 year old grandson, to the teenage couple on a date. They all know the beautiful game inside out.

After watching the game and the way the fans interact with the players, I think I know why the fans get so riled up, especially when there team is doing poorly. Of course they want their team to win. Who doesn't. But more than that, they want the players to care as much about the team as they do. We are in an era where it's more about the money than it is about the passion or love of the team/sport. These fans have grown up with only this team and when they see a player lack enthusiasm on the field, they are insulted. To them wearing that jersey is an honor, and every time a player steps on the field wearing that light blue/white (Lazio colors) they should play like it's their last game.

Yes Lazio lost the game, but after the final whistle was blown the whole team came over to the Curva Nord and clapped to the fans thanking them for their constant support. I could tell that this meant more to them than winning or losing. They want to be a part of Lazio...and the team showing their appreciation allows the fans that connection they desperately seek. It was my first time at the stadium and even I appreciated them coming over. I will go back to watch Lazio again soon, and I too will live and die with each pass like the rest of the Curva Nord.